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KAPAGEN的Tariel Kapanadze的發(fā)電機（自由能）  KAPAGEN, the Tariel Kapanadze's generator
by Jean-Louis Naudin created on may 28, 2010 - JLN Labs - Last update July 5, 2010 Toutes les informati** et schémas sont publiés gratuitement ( freeware ) et sont destinés à un usage personnel et non commercial All informati** and diagrams are published freely (freeware) and are intended for a *** use and a non commercial use. The purpose of these series of experiments is to try to understand the working principle of the Tariel Kapanadze generator presented in his demo video and also to share in realtime the results of my findings through this web page.  My current Kapanadze generator v3.2 is only an attempt of replication of the Tariel's original device based on the Nikola Tesla fuelless generator.
WARNING !!!  WARNING !!! Due to the presence of High Voltage and the High Power output of the Kapagen, users of this document should be very carefull and experienced in High-Voltage electronics to try anything out ! If you do it, the risk of any result is just yours. I take no resp**ibility of anything that might happen. Testing such a device needs a lot of caution and the use of safety procedures, the experimenter must be very skilled in the use of High Voltage at High Power... PROJECT LOG BOOK
# 1 - June 9, 2010 - Kapagen replication by dragon I've made several attempts with different coils and this is one of the better ones. The whole thing is Tesla basics as you can see in the diagram of the circuit. The picture's show it running a small 40 watt bulb at around 7 watts of input, the variac is set at around 50 volts. The NST is a 120V input with a 6500 volt .02 amp output. I have 2 earth grounds on this one but the second doesn't seem to add anything and can be removed without changing the light intensity or input requirement. One is required. I've found by playing with various coils and bulbs it's not so much the wattage of the bulb in as much as the resistance of the bulb or bulbs. I have no real way of measuring the output at a wattage level, no claims are being made.... just an interesting experiment. ..... Since I really don't know how JLN or Kapanadze is actually going about it I've been theroizing on my own of how to accomplish it and came to the conclusion it's nothing more than a reverse tesla coil. Instead of putting HV low amps into L1 and converting it to extreemly high voltage you do just the oposite... put the HV into L2 and convert it to lower voltage and higher amps through L1. The trick is getting L1 to resonate with L2 in its reverse form. L1 being very low inductance using the earth ground through a load creates a psudo tank in which L1 can reach high amps. I still don't have the resonance dialed in quite right with this one although it seems to drive L1 reasonably well ( L1 being the 6 turn coil - L2 being the 90 turn coil - L3 the reversed 30 turn ). L3 is used to raise or lower inductance to help match the two. It might even help to make this one adjustable to some degree. Getting bulbs to light is a matter of shuffling through various resistances to achieve the correct resp**e. I've run 175 watt mercury bulbs with it but those react like FL's and in my mind doesn't really c**titute wattage in as much as a voltage resp**e. I've been doing some tests with a 150 watt halogen and it lights nicely produces lots of heat but is far from full bright. At 150 watt input it will be blindingly bright (sun like to your eyes), driving it with this set up it's bright but not blinding and is using about 35 watts to get it there although I can get an orange glow with lots of heat at 10 watts. I need to do more work with this coil to dial in the resonance a bit better.... Fun stuff....    # 2 - June 9, 2010 - Kapagen successful replication v1.0 by romerouk
I am using 260w in the system and output is at least 500w.The bulbs are more than fully powered. After few more attempts I have destroyed 2 of them. I will have to get some more bulbs tommorow and see how many I can connect and still keep full brightness.I tryed to measure voltage across one bulb and it shows 335v-ac but all my meters are digital and I am sure it is not right.I need to get some analogic multimeters to find the amps and volts at the output.Few minutes ago I have started the system using DC to power the system an now I can see that DC is the only way to keep the system running for longer period of time.Using ac the spark gap becomes very hot as with dc it is much better.Also having a capacitor 90.02mf) connected in parallel with the load, keeps the flickering under control. I hope the picture attached will make all understand the basic of it.  # 3 - June 10, 2010 - Kapagen replication v1.1 and 1.2 by romerouk
I have posted another 2 video-clips testing circuit with high voltage AC then using DC as power source. ... I am in UK, using 240vac. Every bulb is 100w and I have connected 9x100w. Sorry I forgot to show that in the video... I will do it next time. I get around 1.6amp using AC to power the system but when I use DC it drops to around 1.15. ... tube = 5.5cm/140cm - wire 4mm stranded except the big coil = 10mm stranded MOT I have no information about it. the tube is PVC 5mm thick I have no connection with J L Naudin.He lives in France, I live in London - UK, foreigner not British. I have a lot of respect for all his work. Everything he does is always well documented, tidy, showing a lot of knowledge in his work. I am very small comparing to him, many of us here are.I think that he is not trying to prove overunity with kapanadze replication, it is just showing proof of concept.Many applicati**. on J L Naudin website are proof of concept but enough to give us a start in many directi**. For J L Naudin free energy is a fact not just supposition. I am sure he has many devices built showing extra energy.
One thing I found is that you need both earth connecti** directly to the ground and about 10m distance. I didn't try longer distance as I don't have more lenght in the garden.In my first attempt I had one earth was comming from the water supply and the other one from a copper pipe I fixed in the ground.That showed me 2.3 amps for 500w load, then I have fixed another copper pipe in the ground at 10 m distance and I got about 1.6a for 900w load.MOT stays just a little bit warm in my case, maybe you have a defective MOT,run it without anything connected to see if it still gets hot, check capacitor value, if it is too high might create the problems you have.Not recommended to start the device inside the house as it will interfere with all electrical equipment, it does in my case, I have almost destroyed the tv, running the device in the garden.It is a lot of radio waves generated by the device and this is another problem at the moment.Turn off all electrical appliances in the house while testing. Kapanadze replication v1.1 used 1.7A X 240ac = 408 watts input Kapanadze replication v1.2 used 1.16A X 240ac = 281 watts input Success all!    Not as good as a variac although much smaller. It's a 1200W AC power controller or lamp dimmer. Not very clean or linear on a transformer but at least gives some means of power control. Some is better then none...
I am using two seperate grounds spikes and not the house ground.   # 5 - June 11, 2010 - Kapagen replication by retrod
Here is my first attempt, so don't laugh . I used a large variac on the 120vac input to the MOT (not shown). I had to work in the basement indoors so I used a copper water pipe feed for one ground and an iron floor drain pipe that leads outside & underground for the second. The spark gap is a non resistor sparkplug with a vice grip for a heat sink. The lamp is a 200watt 120 volt. I used the DC circuit with a small HV cap. First results: MOT gets very warm and the 20amp mains circuit breaker trips after 15 seconds of operation. Spark gap is electric blue, not violet. Please be careful with this circuit the voltages present are indeed dangerous. Dave  # 6 - June 12, 2010 - Kapagen replication by retrod
Second attempt. After this mornings smoke test I almost gave up. Then there were some encouraging posts and advice. Here is some progress to report. I noticed on my set-up it works much better with high resistance loads. I started with two 40w light bulbs in series and then thought to try fluro tubes. I am up to six tubes in series with the two original 40w lamps. All the fluro tubes were removed from service a year or more ago as dim or non lighting. It reminds me of when many of us were adding LED's in series working with Dr. Stifflers SEC, what fun! I have no way right now to measure input current. The voltage out of the variac is 90 volts. The spark has become very quiet with this load. I may post a short video on youtube later. 
# 7 - June 15, 2010 - Kapagen replication by woopy
Hello romero and all OK i am almost ready for a first test. I did the coil exactly as Romero that is 84 turns plus 22 turns plus 6 big turns.the coil 1 and 2 have the same stranded wire (blue) and for the big coil (green and yellow) there is 7 strand of plain copper, the center is made with 4 stranded copper and something torsaded for connection to one ground line, plus the main blue wire connection to the spark gap. the mot is rated 700 watts. I will use it directly (without the cap and diode for a first test. What do you think ? Or can i use the MO cap (0.95 micro farad and 2100 volts) and HV diode.? I will ground it with 2 ground line conducting to 2 galvanised steel bar going 1 meter deep in the ground. and separated about 15 meter. I intend to use a wire with 3 time 1.5 mm2 bounded ,for the ground lines . I intend to begin with a halogen 500 watts what do you think ? If it works, i will post the pictures of the c**truction of the coil step by step. good luck at all Laurent  # 8 - June 16, 2010 - Kapagen replication by retrod
Some numbers & a video. MOT is a OBJY2 Input Voltage : 120vac Input current : Measured at output of variac 4.0 amps avg Load: Six 200w 120v Lamps Earth Grounds : First: 200ft iron pipe (water well). Second: 10 ft driven rod, copper clad Spark Gap : Champion J-14 with neo magnet attached Air temperature was 68 degrees Fahrenheit MOT Temp at start 84 F MOT Temp at end 107 F Run time approx 4.5 minutes  # 9 - June 16, 2010 - Kapagen replication by woopy
Hi all the rain stopped shortly , and could not prevent me to have a second test. Took all precaution as per Stefan and 3,2,1 go yaouuh it works very fine. The bank directly connected to the grid does simply no light at all, but with the Kapagen it is near full brightness. i have AC current , no cap at all. I did not make any measure but the grid fuse did not even break. another thing i have a radio on at 10 meters from the kapagen and nothing , no grrrrrbbrrkkkkkk, at all in the radio. OK and the rain comes again hope that tomorrow it will be better weather to make some measurements. just for info the bank as a resistance of 400 ohm. when i connect the bank to the grid, my clampmeter shows 130 ma at 230 volts AC just another thing the bank was on and stopped only when i switched off. but when i tried to take the measre of resistance it was impossible. Than i checked the bulb and one was broken. I mean it seems that i probably had the arc in the bulb which make the bulb on even if the tungsten filament is broken. What do you think? good luck at all Laurent   June 18, 2010 - Working KAPAGEN diagram now released by JLN...
 # 10 - June 21, 2010 - Kapagen successful replication by Robert
Dear Mr. Naudin, Good news! I got 1800W out and the MOT stays cold even the inlet power meter indicates 800W. I think that’s a real sign of OU. I have 2x150W halogen + 18x 100W bulbs (fully bright) and all serial. If I would have more lamps I think they would shine fully too. I observed that with the 1N5408 diode didn’t work – but with the BY255 it works very well – just they get hot, so I add cooler. I don’t know way you changed the coil setup but with the coil relation 22 – 84 – 6 its working quite well. Many thanks and br. Robert   # 11 - June 23, 2010 - Kapagen successful replication by Juju
Hi Guys! I made a video of my setup, is my first one! i putted some lamps of 60w others of 100w, all in series with a fan/ventilator of 100W... i putted the fan in the end of the sequence going to ground, because it haves a capacitor of 230V, i was affraid it can blow up if it takes all the primary voltage! 2 lamps in the video are not lighting well, but i think it was some problem with them! this thing can feed all type of devices, not only lamps! and it is not so spooky as at seems, when the adrenaline goes up, the fear fades! spectacular! my output dont work well with dc, as you can see, dont used any caps! dont took measurements because my DMM cannot read alternate current, only dc...  This vid is dedicated to the portuguese team in the worldcup, that win today 7-0 against North Korea
Enjoy! All my thanks specially to JLNaudin, romerouk, laurent, xenomorph, jonny and the rest of the FE crew! # 12 - June 25, 2010 - Kapagen successful replication by TomB-455 Dear Mr Naudin, I have tried to replicate your coil and it works! most of the setup is the same as yours, m.o.t. 800 watt, in dc mode. 10x150 wats halo-bulbs fully bright!! i checkt my variac (but didn't put it on camera) and it was at 165 volts!!! exept for the 23ccw turns on the entrance of the coil, those whre nessecery to reduce the input current. the pictures are folowing soon. i did make a video though.. ;) best regards, TomB-455 
This is an replication of J.L.Naudin's 'kapagen'.
I used for this setup; (V2) M.O.T. 800 watt (D.C. setup), 10x150W halogen lamps(1500watt total) in series. Variac 1,5kva. Coil setup= prim.-88t(cw)+ 23t (ccw) , sec 7t(ccw). The lamps are burning at 165 volts by 1.28 amps input on the 'kapagen' , these figures fluctuating in diffrence of +/- 5% # 13 - June 28, 2010 - Kapagen successful replication by magnetflipper 
  # 15 - July 2nd, 2010 - Kapagen successful replication by don
Hi Mr. Naudin The best (lowest input power) I could get was 707 Watts lighting 18 x 100 watt light bulbs without using a variac. It used 570 watts to light 9 of the 100 watt light bulbs.  I measured my power usage with a Kill-O-Meter connect to Mains over 30 feet away from my device.
 When I first turned my Kapagen on it used over 1100 watts and the lights were approximately 50-60% bright. After playing with this for a week I got the power usage down to 707 Watts and the lights were at least 90% bright. I did this comparison by having one 100 watt light bulb connected to Mains sitting next to one of my light bulbs from my Kapagen. I agree it's not scientific but it was good enough for me to tell the difference.  I did find that dimmer switches and amp restrictors used more power then they were worth so I removed my amp restrictor.
But the most important thing I found was that the ground rods/connecti**/Earth was the biggest factor in lowering my power usage. I replaced my copper tube with c**truction grade grounding rods, applied water to the ground around my ground rods. In my area there is 6-12" of top soil and then under that it's all sand. Sand doesn't hold water very well. Using Carbon rod and Copper for the spark gap lowered my input power usage by 55 watts.  這里的 示意圖 從我的工作。
   My setup used 18 x 100 watt light bulbs totaling 1800 watts, serially connected, with 120 volt Mains input. The lowest wattage I could get without using a variac was 707 watts to light all 18 bulbs. It took 570 watts to light just 9 of the light bulbs. The difference between 9 bulbs and 18 bulbs was just an additional 137 watts (707 - 570 = 137 watts). The ground rods were 4 feet long and spaced over 35 feet apart. My device was placed closer to the South ground rod (~6 feet). I also had a ground plate of steel connected to the MOT. My Kapagen Device.
 I tried varies spark gap materials and the copper & carbon combination lowered my power by 50 watts and produced a nice looking green spark.  Power used for all 18 x 100 watt light bulbs  Power used for 9 x 100 watt light bulbs  created on may 28, 2010 - JLN Labs - Last update July 2nd, 2010
Toutes les informati** et schémas sont publiés gratuitement ( freeware ) et sont destinés à un usage personnel et non commercial All informati** and diagrams are published freely (freeware) and are intended for a *** use and a non commercial use. The purpose of this test is to measure with more accuracy the INPUT electrical power of the Kapagen v3.3. There are 14 x 150 W halogen lamps connected in serie at the output of the Kapagen. I have used a Voltcraft LX-1108 Luxmeter to measure the light intensity of one of these lamps Vs the electrical power required, a calibration curve has been set.  The total OUPUT power for the 14 halogen lamps is calculated with the calibration sheet, below.
  To measure the electrical INPUT POWER, I have used the high end energy meter Voltcraft Energy Logger 4000F connected at the output of the variac.
 The electrical ground conditi** were very poor due to the dryness. I have added water to the ground points to improve the conductivity.
  The Kapagen v3.3 Power IO results are below: http://image./images/2010-10/kapagenv33IO.gif See the video of this experiment: June 30, 2010 - Power OUTPUT measured on the Kapagen v3.3 The purpose of this test is to measure the OUTPUT electrical power of the Kapagen v3.3. There are 14 x 150 W halogen lamps connected in serie at the output of the Kapagen. I have used a Voltcraft LX-1108 Luxmeter to measure the light intensity of one of these lamps Vs the electrical power required, a calibration curve has been set. So, it is easy to calculate the total power at the Kapagen output because the measured light intensity of the lamp is directly linked to the electrical power at the output. A calibration phase has been done with one of the 150 Watt halogen lamp used as the Kapagen load. The calibration lamp has been placed in a black box with the luxmeter probe. The 150 W lamp is connected directly to the Energy Check 3000 energy meter and connected to the variac (see the photos below).   It is now easy to build up a calibration curve (see below) for one of the halogen lamp...
Then the lamp has been reconnected to the Kapagen v3.3, and the light intensity is measured while the Kapagen is running. The total OUPUT power for the 14 halogen lamps can now be easily calculated with the help of a spreadsheet.  It is important to notice that I have used the same energy meter for the calibration process than for the measuring the Kapagen power. You will also notice that the input power to light one halogen lamp is fully in line with its original specificati** (150 Watt of power at 220 V).    The plasma discharge is quiet and stable between the spark gap.
 See the video of this experiment: June 22, 2010 - Very interesting test with the Kapagen v3.3
IMHO, I think that the working principle of the Tariel Kapanadze generator is to ** the free electr** from the Earth. The Earth is a big capacitor which contains free electric charges. If it is possible to create or to find a potential imbalance between two points in the ground, it seems possible to ** additional electr** from the ground and thus to create an increase of the current flow through a wire connected between these two points. Early in his researches in Colorado Springs, Nikola Tesla wanted to collect free energy from the Earth capacitor between the ground and the ionosphere by the use of a parametric resonance with the TMT project (read the Colorado Springs notes from 1899). Later, Tesla has also found that it is possible to do the same process with only the use of the ground by using the natural imbalance of the ground potential produced by the telluric currents flow underground and Tesla has found that this can be done by the use of an asymmetric displacement of current...
"Minimal work is done in the system due to absence of translational movement in the displacement current. As small heat losses occurs, oscillati** are maintained by the surplus charge stored in the coil. Very low energy expenditure allows power delivery to a load over an extended time period without an external fuel supply. After an initial input of energy from an outside source, Tesla's new electrical generator would operate as a fuelless device." from "The Second Law Thermodynamics and Tesla's Fuelless Generator" by Oliver Nichelson Today, I am not able to say if my Kapagen v3.2 is fully in line with this principle above, because this is only the beginning of my research project, this is my main purpose and I explore this path as long as I continue to found something interesting, stay tuned... To help me to find the imbalance of the ground potential on the surface of the Earth induced by underground telluric currents, I have built and I use a kind of surface tellurmeter (a low impedance electrometer), see a photo and the diagram of my device...
From "The Second Law of Thermodynamics and Tesla's Fuelless Generator" by Oliver Nichelson
  All the halogen lamps are protected by surge arrestors EPCOS 230V, this avoids to burn their tungsten filaments.
 I have used halogen light bulbs with a strong tungsten filament.
The pulsed power is very strong and the use of halogen lamps is better than common incandescent lamps.  To work properly, the Kapagen requires two earth ground connecti** 10 meters spaced. The power tapped depends on the weather conditi** and the underground current flow...  The spark gap of the Kapagen (0.9 mm to 1.2 mm gap)
 In the Kapagen v3.3, the spark gap has been improved and finely tuned.  The spark is very quiet and weak compared to the previous version with the tungsten rods.  A plasma cloud is created between the gap, there is no audible sound of sparks discharge.
 Power OUTPUT/INPUT measured on the Kapagen v3.3
The latest power input measurements is far more accurate than the previous, more tests must be soon conducted... The purpose of the Kapagen is to ** the free electr** from the Earth. The Earth is a big capacitor which contains free electric charges. If it is possible to create or to find a potential imbalance between two points in the ground, it seems possible to ** additional electr** from the ground and thus to create an increase of the current flow through a wire connected between these two points. The Kapagen project is still under researches because its principle really worth to be deeply explored......
我也做過，沒有成功，后來才知道那個線圈還需要一個諧振電路，讓它共振起來才行，這個電路是kapangen的核心專利，沒有公布。
交流電的功率用電壓表和電流表分別測量，再相乘，缺少相位角的計算，可能得到的功率數(shù)偏大。
尤其是輸出端，可能頻率已經(jīng)很高，電壓電流表的誤差也許很大了。 所以18樓第二圖，用一個黑盒子，測量串聯(lián)的相同燈泡中的一個 的 亮度。 預先用他那‘4000F型高端能量表’ 測出負載燈泡 功率-照度計讀數(shù) 的關系曲線。 當燈泡用作負載時，還是讀照度計讀數(shù)，用預先的曲線反查得這個燈泡的功率，再乘負載燈泡個數(shù)，既得到比較準的總輸出功率值。   也就是這個電 路，其實也可簡單的電路，12V驅動電路驅動高壓包 線圈調制生成220V50Hz 這個我以前停電的時候帶個燈泡來玩 ， 這個容易還不危險
電路元件好找在功放上都能找到呵呵！還現(xiàn)在想改改了 那個微波變壓器功率太大，太危險了，所以不好測量了！其實卡伯珍我想也是這樣的電路！這個電路可以驅動150W燈泡一個自供電！它的可以驅動5個好像100W吧不過沒有這么亮 卡伯珍有可能是用的比這個功率大一點的的電路！希望各位有所啟發(fā)吧 因為我也是業(yè)余的！沒有多少經(jīng)驗的！呵呵！ 上面看電路圖中的文字我給大家解釋以下！
1.我想他線圈內部用的是45MM外徑的環(huán)形鐵氧體內徑?jīng)]有數(shù)據(jù)高為20MM，磁通量因數(shù)為u=2000網(wǎng)上賣 的我在淘寶看了就是有這種規(guī)格的價格最便宜的3.5元不過高為10MM的，PVC管我家的也是外徑50MM的內徑應該也就是47MM的吧！裝置 要140MM的 要這個的鐵氧體140/10=14 個， 2.它繞在鐵氧體上的用高壓激勵的線圈線徑?jīng)]有給出，但圖片可以看出1.5MM的喇叭線吧！給出的要繞PVC140MM， 3.調制線圈50HZ為38圈繞二層每層19匝 4。輸出為220V50HZ線圈是要繞3層48匝，每圈16匝 像是高頻變壓器的反過來用一樣的， 我想這裝置的關鍵是鐵氧體響應高頻，前一章說的COP大于一的變壓器就是因為 鐵芯用了磁體吧！我想線圈的繞制只是變壓！真正的還是鐵氧體在起作用！ 高壓包高壓脈沖直流線圈只是產(chǎn)生磁場！調制線圈產(chǎn)生了50HZ的磁通量！輸出線圈看圈數(shù)來說不是共振的！只是耦合而已 這個裝置可能就是利用磁能靜脈沖發(fā)電的裝置 我現(xiàn)在正在籌備這個裝置的材料！等一到就要大干起來 前段時間用微波變壓器作的實驗我想就是誤導別人 我的qq:312578603能和大家探討！ 這個機器提取地下電能，如果大規(guī)模運用可能會破壞自然平衡，如同汲取地下水一樣。
用黑白電視機高壓包制作高壓發(fā)生器
  怎么用彩電和黑白電視高壓包改裝高壓發(fā)生電路 電路的重點是：1、降低頻率；2、有效脈沖寬度  這電路要改頻率達到80KHZ了改為20－40KHZ
 用集成塊NE555改裝的高壓電路，優(yōu)點頻率可調，頻寬可調 555定時器頻率計算
參考：
555高壓發(fā)生器電路原理 本高壓發(fā)生器電路可產(chǎn)生穩(wěn)定的8KV以上的高壓，它電路簡單，穩(wěn)定可靠。該電路包括降壓整流、穩(wěn)壓電路、18kHz多諧振蕩器和升壓變壓器等，其電路如圖所示。 降壓整流電路由降壓變壓器T1和全橋整流器及濾波電容器C1等組成，整流出的15V直流電壓，經(jīng)三端穩(wěn)壓器7812穩(wěn)壓后輸出+12v的穩(wěn)定直流電壓，為IC2、VT1等提供工作電壓。  555和R1、R2、C3等組成一個無穩(wěn)態(tài)多諧振蕩器，其振蕩頻率為： fc＝1.44/(R1+2R2)C3 圖示參數(shù)是按18.5kHz設計的。 555輸出的高頻振蕩脈沖經(jīng)R3限流后，加至高頻放大級VT1的基極。該放大器的負載是升壓變壓器T2，經(jīng)T2的次級升壓，可使次級輸出達12KV的高壓，再經(jīng)高壓堆或高壓整流管整流后，可穩(wěn)定輸出+8KV的直流高壓。 圖中降壓變壓器T1的次級電壓應不低于11V，功率不小于5VA；全橋整流器由四支1N4001組裝而成，也可選用1A/400V的全橋模塊；VT1可選用中功率高頻開關管3DK106C或2SD1062等管型；升壓變壓器T2可使用14英寸電視機行輸出變壓器的磁芯和骨架，初級L1用Φ0.45高強度聚脂漆包線繞制54圈，次級用原高壓包，無須改動。初級線圈繞制后最好烘干并臘封。
看了vfedtec.com/doc/kapanadze/kapanadze.pdf，Principle of work of Tariel Kapanadze's device老毛子寫的，英文很爛。大概是說這玩意的原理是這樣的：LC產(chǎn)生震蕩對于自然界來說是一種不平衡，所以產(chǎn)生自感阻斷這種變化，它說自感的能量從自然界中來，因此如果持續(xù)的讓它不平衡就能攝取自然界能量。方法就是用L3連接L1和L2，做成混合的電路（否則就是變壓器了）。然后不知道怎么的，L1、L2試圖共振，并且試圖跟地球環(huán)境共振并恢復平衡（這部分沒看懂老毛子英文太爛），但是卻被L3破壞了，環(huán)境中的能量源源不斷進入L2，以使得L2能夠恢復平衡。
所以：1.L1是初始振蕩電路，必須盡量減少L1能量消耗，所以須用高電壓、高頻、小電流，所以要升高壓，如果用超導，就不用升壓了； 2.L2的頻率必須與L1不同，并且要比L1匝數(shù)少，以獲得大電流； 3.L1、L2、L3的頻率要配比才能產(chǎn)生共振，然后獲得最大能量（沒看懂，不過我猜應該需要整數(shù)倍頻率，因為交流電引起標量旋轉變化需要頻率整數(shù)倍，有點類似瑟爾那個幻方法則，可能是他們說的共振吧。不過更可能與WiTricity的非輻射性磁耦合(Nonradiative Magnetic Coupling)有關，也就是說輸入電源的振蕩頻率應等于L2的固有振蕩頻率，但是L2是接地的，怎么算頻率??）。 我發(fā)現(xiàn)圖紙很多、很多，誰能給個自己驗證過的、簡單的當模型研究一下？我想算算頻率的問題。我找到個老毛子的圖紙，似乎是把地球也納入了振蕩系統(tǒng)。 又看了下kapanadze的專利，還是個國際專利WO2008103129A1，這里kapanadze有點作弊嫌疑，他把負載的L2線圈頻率調整為220v-50Hz或110v-60Hz，我更確信他用了WiTricity的非輻射性磁耦合的原理，調成這兩個頻率真有點不厚道，無非就是搶輸電線的電而已，傳說**斯拉共振的是電離層。  |
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來自： bigfoot200 > 《我的圖書館》
